午夜巴黎 Midnight Paris

Cherie

「誰不愛午夜巴黎?」

這是我對每個漫遊巴黎的人都忍不住要問的。

藍天下的浪漫之都故然是醉人的,但當你把所有的名勝古蹟景點

都看透後,當你受不了跟一堆堆遊客拼了命的逼,當你期望自私的享受, 只屬你巴黎, 你只需要在午夜出動就可!加上春天至夏天的換季期間,天氣回䁔,因此晚上漫步,一定是夏天在巴黎的最佳晚飯後活動!

海明威筆下的饗宴

因為在大學時修英國文學的原故,特別對海明威、Fitzgerald 時期的巴黎著迷。他那本 ”A Movable Feast”更是我最喜歡的一本巴黎聖經,就像我會擁著Virginia Woolf的Street Haunting漫遊倫敦一樣,從作家的透視了解一個城市的面貌,是cliche,也是nostalgia。從文字中認識關於一個城市回憶,就像是用舊式照相機, 以作者的眼睛為過濾鏡,將逝去的記憶和現實中, 交錯的街景刻劃到菲林底片上,重新仔細觀察,感受deja vu。海明威他這樣寫過:

If you are lucky enough to have lived in Paris as a young man, then whenever you go for the rest of your life, it stays with you, for Paris is a moveable feast.「如果你夠幸運,年輕時待過巴黎,那麼巴黎將永遠跟隨著你,因為巴黎是一席流動的饗宴。」

就是這場流動的饗宴,對年青熱情的渴望,讓無數追夢者決定到巴黎來生活。

現在就讓我們重新從海明威書中的選段發,細味那個讓Gertrude Stein, Picasso和James Joyce也無限響往的巴黎。他說過:

“The only thing that could spoil a day was people and if you could keep from making engagements, each day had no limits.”,

要避開一眾的’sightseers’,午夜巴黎,最好不過。

Eiffel Tour 巴黎鐵塔

"I’ve seen you, beauty, and you belong to me now, whoever you are waiting for and if I never see you again, I thought. You belong to me and all Paris belongs to me and I belong to this notebook and this pencil.”

如斯美境,不把她畫下來不行。

Pont Alexandre III/ Petit Palais 亞歷山大三世橋/ 小皇宮

“In those days we did not trust anyone who had not been in the wars, but we did not completely trust anyone.”

歷經歲戰爭風雨仍屹立不倒,這些建築都是歷史最可靠的見證。

馬德琳教堂/ 協和廣場/羅浮宮

“But Paris was a very old city and we were young and nothing was simple there, not even poverty, nor sudden money, nor the moonlight, nor right or wrong nor the breathing of someone who lay beside you in the moonlight.”

這堆建築群一點也不簡單,美感中滲透有羅馬聖殿設和從埃及帶回來的方尖碑,印證著曾經的帝國野心。有説是舊一代的驕傲,新一代的羞恥,價值觀的轉變,複雜得難分對錯。

Saint-Germain-des-Prés/ Eglise Saint Sulpice/ Institut de France

“To have come on all this new world of writing, with time to read in a city like Paris where there was a way of living well and working, no matter how poor you were, was like having a great treasure given to you.”

第六區最有文藝氣息,是閱讀和寫作的好基地。