午夜巴黎 Midnight Paris

Cherie

「谁不爱午夜巴黎?」

这是我对每个漫游巴黎的人都忍不住要问的。

蓝天下的浪漫之都故然是醉人的,但当你把所有的名胜古迹景点

都看透后,当你受不了跟一堆堆游客拼了命的逼,当你期望自私的享受, 只属你巴黎, 你只需要在午夜出动就可!加上春天至夏天的换季期间,天气回䁔,因此晚上漫步,一定是夏天在巴黎的最佳晚饭后活动!

海明威笔下的飨宴

因为在大学时修英国文学的原故,特别对海明威、Fitzgerald 时期的巴黎着迷。他那本 ”A Movable Feast”更是我最喜欢的一本巴黎圣经,就像我会拥着Virginia Woolf的Street Haunting漫游伦敦一样,从作家的透视了解一个城市的面貌,是cliche,也是nostalgia。从文字中认识关于一个城市回忆,就像是用旧式照相机, 以作者的眼睛为过滤镜,将逝去的记忆和现实中, 交错的街景刻划到菲林底片上,重新仔细观察,感受deja vu 。海明威他这样写过:

If you are lucky enough to have lived in Paris as a young man, then whenever you go for the rest of your life, it stays with you, for Paris is a moveable feast.「如果你够幸运,年轻时待过巴黎,那么巴黎将永远跟随着你,因为巴黎是一席流动的飨宴。」

就是这场流动的飨宴,对年青热情的渴望,让无数追梦者决定到巴黎来生活。

现在就让我们重新从海明威书中的选段发,细味那个让Gertrude Stein, Picasso和James Joyce也无限响往的巴黎。他说过:

“The only thing that could spoil a day was people and if you could keep from making engagements, each day had no limits.”,

要避开一众的’sightseers’,午夜巴黎,最好不过。

Eiffel Tour 巴黎铁塔

"I've seen you, beauty, and you belong to me now, whoever you are waiting for and if I never see you again, I thought. You belong to me and all Paris belongs to me and I belong to this notebook and this pencil.”

如斯美境,不把她画下来不行。

Pont Alexandre III/ Petit Palais 亚历山大三世桥/ 小皇宫

“In those days we did not trust anyone who had not been in the wars, but we did not completely trust anyone.”

历经岁战争风雨仍屹立不倒,这些建筑都是历史最可靠的见证。

马德琳教堂/ 协和广场/罗浮宫

“But Paris was a very old city and we were young and nothing was simple there, not even poverty, nor sudden money, nor the moonlight, nor right or wrong nor the breathing of someone who lay beside you in the moonlight.”

这堆建筑群一点也不简单,美感中渗透有罗马圣殿设和从埃及带回来的方尖碑,印证着曾经的帝国野心。有说是旧一代的骄傲,新一代的羞耻,价值观的转变,复杂得难分对错。

Saint-Germain-des-Prés/ Eglise Saint Sulpice/ Institut de France

“To have come on all this new world of writing, with time to read in a city like Paris where there was a way of living well and working, no matter how poor you were, was like having a great treasure given to you.”

第六区最有文艺气息,是阅读和写作的好基地。